New Products: Nylon Bridle Slings

bridle-sling-300x162-redOur nylon lifting slings category continues to expand with the most recent addition of 600+ new Nylon Bridle Slings.

A nylon bridle sling offer s both incredible strength and ease of use due to its light weight and ability to collapse for easy storage.

Other benefits include:

  • Four configurations available (single leg, double leg, triple leg, or quad leg) to meet a variety of applications.
  • The synthetic nylon is more flexible than chain or wire rope.
  • Quality hardware from Pewag ensures quality. Oblong links are manufactured in Grade 100 alloy steel; hooks are all in a Grade 80 alloy steel.
  • Each bridle sling leg stretches approximately 3% at rated capacity, helping to absorb shock during a lift.
  • Nylon fabric will not conduct electricity like a chain sling or wire rope sling.
  • Multiple leg design in the 2-, 3-, and 4-leg styles allow the bearing points to be rotated, which extends the sling’s working life.
  • Available in two different ply thickness.
  • The 2-, 3-, and 4-leg styles can be used in different hitches, offering excellent versatility.

We offer three end fittings online- oblong, hook, and sewn eye. Each sling also has a master oblong link. Two widths (1″ and 2″) and two ply options (1-ply and 2-ply) are also available for order online.

Other recent additions to the nylon sling category include Drum Slings and Drum Lifters, as well as a request quote form for Custom Boat Slings.

Like all of our nylon slings, our nylon web bridle slings are made in the USA.

If you don’t see the sling you need, give us a call. We’re always happy to customize a bridle web sling assembly to your specs. You can reach our lifting slings product team at 800-660-3585.

Click over to our website to see all of our Lifting Slings & Rigging Slings, or click the buttons below to go directly to each category of nylon bridle slings.





















What are E-Track Shoring Beams?

92″ Adjustable Aluminum Shoring Beam – Extends to 103″

E-track shoring beams  can serve a dual purpose. Not only can they secure cargo safely inside a trailer, they can also be used to provide additional storage space.

E-track shoring beams attach to e-track rails that are installed inside your truck or trailer. Also called load bars, cargo bars, or load locks, the adjustable beams snap into the e-track rails and prevent loads from shifting during transport. E-track shoring practice3beams are perfect for securing large, bulky cargo that may damage other items or your vehicle itself if the load shifts in transport.

Shoring beams are also sometimes called decking beams because of their ability to create more usable space inside your vehicle. Just add two or more beams at the same interval on the E-track and secure a piece of plywood on top of the beams to create a surface area. Our load bar shoring beams are available in both steel and aluminum to suit a variety of applications.

You can also create a storage rack with two beams without using plywood, check out how US Cargo Control customer Wade did so in IMAG0334his trailer: Customer Photos: Adjustable Shoring Beams.

Like any tool, cargo bars should be stored properly when not in use. Failure to do so can result in serious injury because the beams can become dangerous projectiles in the event of a sudden stop or an accident. A great option: Yellow Rack™ shoring beam holder.

To shop all of our  E-track rails, straps, and accessories, click over to: E Track Straps & Tie Downs. Don’t see a strap or hook you need? Give us a call at 866-444-9990 and we’ll do our best to track it down for you.

Need help in deciding whether to install vertical or horizontal E-track? Check out this video for a quick overview of the difference of the two.



How to Winterize Your Motorcycle

dri_41You start to feel it about this time of year – the air starts to get crisp, you start to plan the annual leaf ride…its almost time to start to prep your motorcycle for winter. To keep your bike well maintained and ready to go in the spring, there are some things which need to be taken care of before the snow flies.

Give it a good bath

Leaving dirt, bugs or other junk on your bike over winter is bad. If you let those all winter, it will begin to corrode and start to damage the paint. Use water and a mild detergent to clean and ultimately protect your motorcycle’s finish. Be sure to get the bike dry too – water that sits on the bike is almost as bad as dirt for long periods of time (like a winter) and it will begin to rust. Take this opportunity to make a last run to the local car wash on the bike and enjoy the ride.

Fuel – fill it up or drain the tank

This is like the chicken and the egg. So like one, some like the other – you either need to fill the tank or drain it. I like to fill, and if you do – you must use a fuel stabilizer. Again, some like Sta-bil, some like SeaFoam…pick your favorite and use the manufacture’s recommended amount for your size of fuel tank. If you choose to drain- get it dry. The last thing you want in your tank is rust- very bad.

Along those lines – determine if your bike is fuel injected or carbureted. Carbs need to be drained of their gas – usually from small screws on the bottom side of the fuel bowl. But – not before the treated gas has had a chance flow through. It will help preserve the carb seals and gaskets. (This is the same treatment which should be used if a bike is put into extended storage.)

Super shine

Once you get back from the car wash and gas station – give the bike a once over with a nice wax or polish. This will keep the dust and dirt away from that new, clean paint. This is a great time to look over the bike; inspect for any damage to the body work, look over the frame for damage and of course dream of all the things you want to add to the bike for the next riding season. Some call these additions farkles, whatever you call them…its a good time.Yamaha_Midnight_Star.engine

Oil change and lube

What? Before you park it? I know – the humanity. But, this will protect your engine and spark plugs from the moisture you curated since the last change. Prior to the change – be sure to warm up your engine – to get rid of any moisture that could have already formulated around it.
Those with the super precautionary gene will want to remove the plugs and add some oil to coat the cylinder walls. By doing this – you add that layer of oil to the internals of the engine, which will keep things as good as new.

A full oil change is also recommended before you go back on the road in the spring too – I will not admit to doing that myself. But, it is a good uber-precautionary riders will. They will say the chemicals in the engine oil becomes acidic over the winter – I think the new synthetic oils will hold.

To protect the cables, bolts and shafts from rust and tightening – use penetrating oil to prevent moisture from forming. Top of the list is the throttle and clutch cables, any pivot points like your kick stand and shifter – and if your bike is chain drive, clean, lube/wax the chain before you store it.

The battery

Some will want to remove the battery – and if you are not storing your bike in a heated area and you do not plan to trickle charge the battery…I have to agree. Now – I am spoiled and have a nice heated shed for my Kawasaki. But – removal is a great idea. Batteries are not cheap.

I like a trickle charger – they have become very, very inexpensive. The connection is permanently mounted to the bike and plugs into 120 volt. There have been some seriously cool solar trickle chargers on the market in the past few years – this is a nice free way to keep the battery maintained, and a super option if your storage spot doesn’t have electricity.

Exhaust and mufflers

Again – we are wanting to prevent moisture – and where heat was, water can be. So use oil penetrating/oil to spray the muffler and drain holes to prevent rust. Some will go as far as to stuff/cover muffler hole(s) with a plastic bag – but make sure the exhaust is dry before you do that. Or, you will be trapping water in the system. One advantage to plugging the system is to keep any pests out of your pipes. No one wants mice in their pipes…not good.

Tire check

Check and fill, if necessary, you tires to the manufacture’s psi level before storage, It prevents any damage caused from under-inflated tires sitting. Make sure to store your bike on the center stand – it takes lots of down pressure off the tires. If your storage area is concrete – consider storing your bike on wood or carpet to prevent/minimize moisture contact with the tires. Cardboard will work in a pinch – especially if there is any change the tires could freeze to the storage floor, that is not recommended.


If your bike is water-cooled. Check your anti-freeze/water ratio. Anti-freeze should be flushed every 2-3 years. If you bike is air cooled – less often.


Covers can be purchased at local discount stores. It is an absolute must if you are storing outside – there are different covers based on inside or outside storage. Covering your bike not only protects it from the elements, but keeps keeps dust off and moisture to a minimum.
Please don’t use a simple tarp or sheet – it can absorb the moisture in the air which will lead to rust. Damp fabric can also attract – develop mold. This will primary cause issues with your seat…your bike seat. Save yourself and buy a reasonably priced bike cover – they do come in different sizes, so check the package.

Where to store?

Ideally – we could build a big, heated shed to store the bike in for the winter. We could keep it dry, clean and sit on it when we miss the riding. But, for many of us – this is not possible. If you find inside storage – try to find a place that is away from any windows. UV damages the paint and plastic parts of your motorcycle. Some dealers offer bike storage programs – if you have no space at home. Also – if you plan to buy a new bike in the spring, check with the dealer…sometimes they offer to store new bikes until spring for free when they sell new bikes. If you have to store the bike outside – find a nice, clean protected spot. Make sure if you are in a snowy area, you bike does not get disguised as a snow pile and get moved by the snow plow. That would be bad.

Hopefully you have come away with a nice checklist to use to winterize your motorbike for the winter.

Wide Load and Oversize Load Banner Requirements by State


coverA load is considered oversized if it exceeds the standard legal size or weight limits for a road or highway. There are also “load per axle” limits for the weight of a load. Examples of wide or oversized loads include pre-fabricated homes, construction machinery, industrial equipment, and wind turbine propellers.button

Using oversize load banner signs, safety flags and wide load banners is a Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) requirement for any commercial motor vehicle handling an oversized or wide load. Size and weight parameters vary between states, so it is important to research what the rules are for states through which you will be transporting oversized or wide loads.

Vehicles transporting wide or oversized loads often require special permits, which usually mean extra fees to travel legally on certain roads and highways. These permits often specify dates and times that travel with oversized or wide loads is allowed, along with certain routes that the vehicles are allowed to take.

Click a state in the list below for more information about wide load and oversize load banner requirements, safety guidelines, and permit information:

New Hampshire
New Jersey
New Mexico
New York
North Carolina
North Dakota
Rhode Island
South Carolina
South Dakota
West Virginia

How Many Tie Downs Do I Need?

881_10152845815947619_596881898_nshutterstock_174551804When you transport any type of cargo, it is important to use the correct number of tie downs to secure your load. The number of tie downs you need depends on the length and weight of the cargo you are transporting.

Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA) rules state:

Use one tie-down if your cargo:

  • Is shorter than 5 feet and weighs less than 1,100 pounds

Use two tie-downs if your cargo:

  • Is 5 feet or shorter and weighs more than 1,100 pounds
  • Is longer than 5 feet, but shorter than 10 feet

Use a minimum of 4 tie-downs if your cargo:

  • Is heavier than 10,000 pounds

You’ll need to use additional tie-downs if your cargo is 10 feet or longer. The FMCSA recommends that you add one tie-down for every additional 10 feet of length. If extra footage does not add up to 10 additional feet, a supplemental tie-down is still needed.

The FMCSA has specific rules for hauling specific types of cargo (including logs, concrete pipe, automobiles and more) and for special purpose vehicles. These rules were put in place to decrease the number of accidents and injuries from shifting or falling cargo. This article from the FMCSA website includes a full explanation of the rules.Capture

Obviously, the safety of your cargo also depends on the working load limits  of the tie downs you choose. Learn more here: Aggregate Working Load Limits.

Always be proactive- check the number of tie down chains you need to secure your cargo, and make sure the tie downs you are using have a satisfactory working load limit and are in good working condition.

Questions about tie downs and working load limits? Give our product experts a call at 866-444-9990.